El Nido didn’t become the poster child of Philippine tourism by accident. This small coastal town at the northern tip of Palawan delivers a combination of limestone karst scenery, hidden lagoons, and white-sand beaches that genuinely lives up to the hype. I’ve visited three times now, in different seasons, and each trip revealed something new — a quieter beach, a better snorkeling spot, a cheaper way to get around.
If you’re planning your first El Nido trip, this guide covers everything you actually need to know: which island-hopping tours are worth your money, where to eat without blowing your budget, and how to avoid the crowds that have become part of the El Nido experience.
Getting to El Nido
You have two options. The budget route: fly into Puerto Princesa (more flight options, cheaper fares) and take a five-to-six-hour van or bus ride north. The vans are air-conditioned and relatively comfortable — book through your accommodation or at the transport terminal near the airport. The premium route: fly directly into Lio Airport, about 15 minutes from El Nido town proper. AirSWIFT operates these flights from Manila, Cebu, and Coron, but they’re pricier (often double the Puerto Princesa fare).
If you’re coming from Coron, the fast ferry takes about three to four hours and runs daily during peak season. Book through Buhay Isla or Montenegro Lines — check schedules a few days ahead as they shift seasonally.
The Island-Hopping Tours: A, B, C, and D
El Nido’s island-hopping tours are labeled A through D, each covering a different set of islands and lagoons. Here’s the honest breakdown:
Tour A is the most popular and includes Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, Secret Lagoon, and Shimizu Island. The lagoons are spectacular — paddling a kayak through the narrow entrance of Small Lagoon into a hidden pool surrounded by cliffs is a peak travel moment. The downside: it’s the most crowded tour, especially between 10 AM and 2 PM.
Tour C is my favorite. It hits Helicopter Island (excellent snorkeling along the wall), Matinloc Shrine, Secret Beach (you swim through a hole in a limestone wall to reach a hidden cove), and Hidden Beach. Fewer boats, better snorkeling, and Secret Beach alone is worth the price of the tour.
Tour B covers Pinagbuyutan Island, Entalula Beach, Snake Island (a sandbar shaped like a snake), and Cathedral Cave. It’s more relaxed and less scenically dramatic than A or C, but the beaches are gorgeous and uncrowded.
Tour D visits Cadlao Lagoon, Pasandigan Beach, Natnat Beach, and Bukal Beach. The swimming and snorkeling are good but it’s the least popular tour. Great if you want a quiet day on the water.
My recommendation: If you only have two days, do Tour A and Tour C. Three days? Add Tour B. Each tour costs roughly 1,200-1,500 pesos per person including lunch — book through your hotel or any of the tour shops along Hama Street.
Best Beaches in El Nido
Beyond the tours, several beaches are reachable by tricycle, motorbike, or short bangka ride:
- Nacpan Beach — A four-kilometer stretch of golden sand about 45 minutes north of town by motorbike. Far quieter than the town beach and one of the most beautiful open beaches in Palawan. There are a few beach bars and restaurants at the south end.
- Lio Beach — Near the airport, this is a more developed stretch with resorts, restaurants, and a calmer vibe. Good for families or anyone wanting a break from backpacker energy.
- Duli Beach — About an hour north of town, past Nacpan. It has a decent surf break during the amihan season (November to March) and feels genuinely remote. The road is rough — motorbike only.
- Las Cabanas Beach — Just south of town, popular for sunset watching. The zipline over the water here is touristy but fun. Gets busy in the late afternoon.
Where to Eat
El Nido’s food scene has improved dramatically over the past few years. A few standouts:
Trattoria Altrove — The best pizza in El Nido, possibly in all of Palawan. Run by an Italian couple, wood-fired, and reasonably priced. Expect a wait during dinner.
Happiness Beach Bar — Right on the water, good for sunset drinks and Filipino-fusion dishes. The sinigang (sour soup) here is legit.
Auntie Lucia’s Diner — Hole-in-the-wall serving proper Filipino meals at local prices. The chicken adobo and garlic rice will cost you about 120 pesos.
For cheap eats, the public market has cooked-food stalls serving rice meals for 60-80 pesos. Best for lunch when everything is freshly prepared.
Practical Tips
- ATMs: There are a few in town but they run out of cash regularly, especially on weekends. Bring enough pesos from Puerto Princesa or Manila.
- Environmental fee: All tourists pay a one-time 200-peso Eco-Tourism Development Fee (ETDF) upon arrival. Keep the receipt — you’ll need it for tour registrations.
- Electricity: El Nido used to have scheduled brownouts but now has 24-hour power. WiFi varies by accommodation — don’t expect fast speeds.
- Motorbike rental: Around 500-700 pesos per day. The best way to explore beyond town. Roads to Nacpan are paved; beyond that, expect dirt and gravel.
- Rainy season: June through October brings heavier rain and rougher seas. Some tours get cancelled. Prices drop significantly, though — it’s a valid budget strategy if you’re flexible.
How Many Days Do You Need?
Three full days is the sweet spot — enough for two island-hopping tours and a day exploring beaches on your own. Five days lets you slow down, add a third tour, visit Nacpan and Duli, and maybe take a day trip to the Twin Lagoon area north of town. Much longer than five days and you might get restless unless you’re the type to happily re-read novels on a beach (no judgment).
El Nido rewards both planning and spontaneity. Have a rough schedule for the tours, but leave room for the unexpected — a local who tips you off to a quiet cove, a sudden rain that clears into the most dramatic sunset you’ve ever seen. That’s the Philippines at its best.